If you hear the word Mataburro being used it can mean one of two things.
In rural areas of most countries, big-business cattle ranchers as well as families with a dairy cow or two, build and install what have become known as Mataburros.
These “burro killers” are grates installed in the ground at the entrance and exit of cattle containment boundaries that cars, motorcycles and people can traverse---but not cattle.
In this part of the world, these purposeful devices may fall into disrepair or are so poorly constructed that motorcyclists, bicyclists and even cars may find it a challenge to navigate across them without a small mishap, or sometimes even a big one.
These Mataburros are a great reason not to drive at night.
Mataburros can also refer to the oversized, heavy duty front bumpers that many SUVs and 4-wheel drive vehicles display that give extra protection to the radiator and engine areas.
Whichever Mataburro is referred to, few if any burros are killed by them.
Although she committed the #1 most risky thing to do when traveling on a bus, the “gringa” girl was lucky enough to be on a bus with Costa Ricans who cared.
We didn’t realize it at first, but we were witness to a common theft, where someone’s belongings are quickly stolen from the overhead rack by a predator who, the moment he steps on a bus, scans his fellow travelers, choosing the unattended bag or backpack that’s the easiest mark.
It happened right in front of us on a local bus out of JacóBeach headed for Puntarenas where we connect to our Nicaragua bound transport.
He stood up, turned toward the rear, grabbed “his” backpack from the overhead and smoothly exited.Immediately, a fellow-rider started asking people to check if their bag was missing.
As it turned out, the owner of the stolen bag was sitting nowhere near it and didn’t even know it was missing!
BUS DRIVERS WHO CARE
Within a matter of seconds the cord was pulled, stopping the fully loaded bus. Immediately, 5 Ticos, the victim and the bus driver piled out and were running after the thief!
When the group returned with backpack in hand a cheer erupted through out the whole bus! Usually, stories like these don’t have happy endings so we continue to educate those who choose to visit Costa Rica and the JacóBeach area.
Actually, most of the travel tips can be used anywhere in the world because people are people (write that down).So, here’s the traveling-on-a-bus-with-a-backpack tip; keep your bag or backpack on your lap, if possible.
If you choose to stash it in the overhead rack, make sure you sit where you can see it.Realize, however that thieves often work in teams that will block you from being able to reach it, usually when a lot of people are getting off at the same time.
If you are traveling with a large backpack that is too big to bring onto the bus and has to be stored “abajo” in the outside lower storage area, know that this is the most vulnerable area possible.
YOU'RE ON YOUR OWN-STAY ALERT
If you travel in a group (recommended), consider tying the packs together so if one is pulled out the thief will have to deal with the rest of them.We’ve seen one group of 6 backpackers use simple cable-type bike locks to link their packs together.
Nothing is 100% foolproof or replaces vigilance or a busload full of helpful Ticos being operated by a “not-on-my-bus-you-don’t” driver.
We took a ride south to Esterillos to view a “Calbagata”(horse parade or Tope) that we weren’t sure was going to be there.
LA SIRENA
There was no advertising about it anywhere, no information on the internet and no handbills or posters taped to utility poles.A friend of a friend said it would happen so the road trip ensued.
First, a walk on the beach exploring the long stretch of sand which featured tied down little boats of local fishermen and a bronze statue of a mermaid placed in the ocean on a rock reef that disappears under the water at high tide.
The legend is that it was placed on the rocks by a sad father whose daughter drowned in that location.
MAYELA and FREDDY
After asking several locals where the horses were and receiving a few incorrect directions we finally came upon a plateau area that overlooked the ocean where all the participants were gathering; riding, eating and drinking.
Cowboys, cowgirls, cowkids and a lot of beautiful, well cared for horses were all gathered in this little spot that will someday have million dollar homes or condos on it with million dollar views of the sparkling Pacific below.
This sand jewel is about a 30 minute drive from Jacó and eventually will become Jacó South as the influx of Europeans, Americans and all the rest continues.
This gathering of horses and horse people was an example of the hidden treasures that we continue to find and pass on to others.One little gem that’s an annual fun and crazy event coming up soon is the Mule Races in Parrita---can’t wait!
There are so many places that surround Jacó Beach that are fun to visit that it requires constant vigilance to achieve the best timing for their town Festivals or celebrations.
Since, in this part of the world, there are no sophisticated advertising campaigns letting you know when and where a Fiesta of some kind is to occur, you have to set up your own stream of communication.
Photo by Teri Dominey
We were reminded about the Mardi Gras in Esterillos Oeste by e-mail and word of mouth.This is the First Annual Mardi Gras Festival which was developed for raising money for the local schools and also to enjoy some serious partying!
Photo by Teri Dominey
Costa Rica lags behind many countries in the “party at all costs” sweepstakes, especially when it comes to Mardi Gras so the Esterillos Oeste “Krew of Sirena” who organized this event should be very proud of themselves, as this event went off as scheduled and made a lot of people very happy.
Photo by Teri Dominey
The only words of warning would be to duck or catch the candy and coins before they hit you in the head.A motorcycle helmet would work nicely!
Our previous 5 excursions to Granada, Nicaragua have all been unique and special and trip number 6 was no exception.Despite some trepidation concerning the violence we saw in the news surrounding the ongoing nationwide mayoral elections, we embarked on our 4 day journey anyway.
As it turned out, most of the violence was limited to Managua and turned into mostly celebrations as supporters of President Daniel Ortega won most of the votes, although shrouded in the cloud of possible voter fraud.*LATE INSERT---The crowds we saw on Managua T.V were bussed in from other areas to make it appear as though Daniel Ortega's candidates were supported by hordes of happy, celebrating people; which is why many of the "happy" citizens have their faces covered with handkerchief masks. Granada was virtually untouched by the violence and this visit proved once again to reinforce our infatuation with the beautiful and friendly Nicaraguan city.
We stayed in a different hotel this time, the Purgola; one of many Granadian businesses that transform old Colonial mansions into modern establishments.Disguised from the outside as a small Colonial house from the 1800s, the Purgola opens up into a beautiful lobby with 20 foot ceilings and woodwork that looks like it could have been carved for the most elite of upper class families.
The two story array of rooms surrounds an open garden in the traditional Spanish style. The amenities have been upgraded to include A/C, orthopedic beds, cable TV and WiFi. Breakfast is included from the spacious on site restaurant. We were treated like family by the staff, including Juan Pablo the ever-present watchman/doorman/concierge to Maria Lisa at the front desk and the wonderful mothering maintenance woman, Julia.
Despite the traditional one-temperature-only (not hot) water system, we would not hesitate to return to the Purgola.During our little adventure we had to hit Jimmy 3 Fingers Alabama Rib Shack for his signature ribs, home made meatloaf smothered in mushroom sauce, veal parmesan and the gigantic cuts of Filet Mignon.
A new culinary discovery occurred when we found a Mexican restaurant, the Tequila Vallarta, which boasted the best Margarita in town.After downing a large number of these (for test purposes only) we ordered the tortilla soup and were blown away!There is no better, period!They then out did themselves with a chicken enchilada entree, covered in mole sauce that scored big time.This unexpected find of a Nicaraguan/Mexican restaurant will pass muster from the most critical of patrons.
One of the best attributes of Granada is that it’s a perfect walking around city and as we strolled the cobble stoned avenues we saw, proceeding slowly down the street, a horse driven black hearse followed by the grieving family and friends of the departed who’s casket was visible through the glass windows of the flower adorned vehicle.The beautiful horses were covered in black mesh.This entourage was so overwhelming that we barely were able to record it on camera.
One of our evening strolls brought us into contact with John Oliver, a black man from Pearl Lagoon in the Bluefields area on the Caribbean side of Nicaragua.We did not see him at first because of the darkness, but heard someone approaching, singing the old song “-- -- -- -- --, electric avenue”.My son Evan started singing along and from out of the darkness, John Oliver appeared.Among his many talents is his street art that he paints on “recycled” paper (whatever paper he finds) which he will gladly sell for a small price.We purchased the only one he had in his bag and John Oliver then broke into beautiful rhyming rap that he personalized for my son and his girlfriend, Joey.This lyrical presentation became a blessing from a wise man who lives a simple life and spreads his brand of good cheer wherever he roams. We later saw him walking around even happier than before with a very large cup of beer in his hand.
There were so many visual and audio impressions that we will never forget. This special city continues its unique captivation.